Identification
Physical Characteristics
Size: Females are the larger sex, with a body length ranging from 6mm to 11mm. Males are considerably smaller and more slender, typically measuring 4-6mm.
Coloration: The female's cephalothorax and legs are typically brown or reddish-brown. The abdomen is the most variable feature, ranging from a uniform purplish-brown to satin black. It often bears markings, which can be a crescent-shaped light marking on the front, and a series of spots or triangles down the centre, though these can be faint or entirely absent in older, darker individuals. Males are lighter in colour with more distinct markings.
Key Features: The key feature distinguishing it from a Redback is the complete absence of a bright red dorsal stripe. Its colour is brown or purple-black, not the deep velvety black of a Redback, and its egg sac is fluffy and silk-like, not smooth and papery.
Biology & Lifecycle
Development & Reproduction
Reproduction Rate: They are prolific breeders. A single female can produce an egg sac every 4-6 weeks under favourable conditions, leading to a rapid increase in population, especially within a cluttered, undisturbed environment like a garage or shed.
Lifecycle Details
Egg Stage
After mating, the female produces multiple egg sacs over her lifespan. Each sac is a loosely woven, fluffy, white ball of silk, and can contain anywhere from 40 to over 200 eggs. These sacs are not smooth and papery like a Redback's, but have a distinct 'cotton-wool' texture. They are hidden within the tangled web, usually in the most protected corner of her retreat.
Larval Stage
Spiderlings hatch within the egg sac and emerge after their first moult. They are tiny and will remain in the maternal web for a short time before dispersing, typically by climbing to a high point and 'ballooning' on a silk thread carried by air currents. This allows them to colonize new areas within a building or be transported outdoors.
Pupal Stage
Spiders do not undergo a pupal stage. They grow through a series of moults, gradually increasing in size and developing adult colouration.
Adult Stage
Females can live for up to two years, and can continue to produce eggs for a long time after a single mating. Males have a much shorter lifespan of only a few months; their sole purpose is to find a female and mate. Due to their adaptability to indoor environments with stable temperatures, breeding can occur at any time of the year.
Reproduction Rate
They are prolific breeders. A single female can produce an egg sac every 4-6 weeks under favourable conditions, leading to a rapid increase in population, especially within a cluttered, undisturbed environment like a garage or shed.
Generations Per Year
Indoors, with stable food and temperature, multiple generations can be produced per year, leading to overlapping populations of all life stages being present simultaneously.
Development Time
The time from egg to adult is variable, taking from one to four months, heavily dependent on temperature and food availability. Warmer conditions lead to faster development.
Seasonal Cycle
Indoors, there is no strong seasonal cycle, and they can be active and reproduce year-round. In outdoor populations, activity and numbers peak in the warmer months of late spring, summer, and autumn.
Environmental Factors
The key factors for success are an undisturbed location, the presence of structures to anchor a web, darkness, and a supply of crawling insects. Cluttered areas are ideal.
Habitat & Distribution
Preferred Habitats
- Dark, undisturbed indoor locations like cupboards, pantries, and wardrobes.
- Cluttered areas in garages, sheds, and sub-floor spaces.
- Behind large appliances or heavy furniture.
- Outdoor locations include under window sills, in mailboxes, and amongst stored firewood.
- Any dark, dry crevice or corner provides a potential home.
Distribution Patterns
Australian Distribution
Found in all states and territories of Australia, particularly common in southern, more populated regions like Victoria, New South Wales, South Australia, and Tasmania.
Climate Zones
- Temperate
- Subtropical
- Mediterranean
Urban vs Rural Distribution
Extremely common in urban and suburban environments due to the abundance of ideal indoor habitats. Less common in pristine natural environments.
Native Range
Believed to be of European origin.
Introduced Range
A cosmopolitan species, now found in temperate and subtropical regions all over the world, including North America, Europe, Asia, and Australia, due to human commerce.
Introduction History
Likely arrived in Australia with early European settlers and has been established for over a century.
Current Spread
Maintains a stable, widespread distribution in populated areas of Australia.
Limiting Factors
While adaptable, it is less successful in extremely hot, arid regions or very cold alpine zones without the shelter of human buildings.
Behavior & Diet
Activity Pattern
Predominantly nocturnal. They remain hidden in a retreat deep within their web during the day and become active at night, often hanging upside down in the web waiting for prey.
Dietary Preferences
Feeding Habits
A generalist carnivore that preys on a wide range of insects and other arthropods.
Health Risks
Always consult healthcare professionals for medical concerns related to pest exposure.
Disease Transmission
- Does not transmit infectious diseases.
Allergens and Respiratory Issues
The main risk is from venom, not allergens.
Contamination Risk
Low. While their webs can be messy, they are not typically built directly on food preparation surfaces.
Vulnerable Populations
- Individuals with a specific sensitivity or allergy to insect/spider bites.
- Children and the elderly may experience more pronounced symptoms.
- Anyone cleaning out cluttered, dark areas where they may be hiding.
Symptoms of Exposure
- A bite can cause immediate or delayed pain at the site.
- Localised swelling, redness, and goosebumps are common.
- The venom can cause systemic symptoms known as 'steatodism', which may include prolonged pain, headache, nausea, lethargy, and malaise.
- Symptoms are unpleasant and can last for a day or two but typically resolve without specific treatment. Medical advice should be sought to rule out a Redback bite and for pain management.
Transmission Methods
- Risk is exclusively from the venom injected during a defensive bite from a female spider.
Risk Severity
Moderate. The bite is medically significant but not considered life-threatening. It is less severe than a Redback bite.
Economic Impact
Treatment Costs
Professional Treatment
$220-$450 for a general spider treatment that will cover Cupboard Spiders as well as other common species.
Prevention Costs
$150-$300 for an annual preventative barrier spray.
Diy Treatment
$20-$40 for a can of surface spray or spider aerosol.
Property Damage
Structural Damage
None.
Garden Damage
None.
Food Contamination
Very low risk. Webs are messy but the spiders are secretive and avoid open areas.
Equipment Damage
None.
Business Impact
Restaurant Issues
Webs in storage areas or cellars can be a nuisance and require regular cleaning.
Retail Impact
Can be an issue in stockrooms or warehouses, requiring pest management programs.
Reputation Damage
While not as severe as a Redback, a visible infestation of any spider can be off-putting to customers.
Operational Disruption
In sensitive environments like food storage or healthcare, their presence can require temporary shutdowns for cleaning and treatment.
Agricultural Impact
Crop Damage
None.
Yield Loss
None.
Beneficial Aspects
They are effective predators of common household insect pests like cockroaches and flies.
Economic Loss
Primarily through the cost of residential and commercial pest control services, and minor healthcare costs for managing bites.
Indirect Costs
Healthcare Costs
Minor costs for medical consultations to rule out Redback bites and for over-the-counter pain relief.
Cleanup Costs
The labour cost of regularly vacuuming and cleaning webs from corners, especially in commercial or storage settings.
Replacement Costs
None.
Preventive Maintenance
The cost of annual pest control services is the main indirect cost for many households and businesses.
Detection & Signs
Visual Signs
- The presence of their messy, tangled webs in dark corners.
- Sighting of the purplish-brown, round-bodied spiders, especially at night.
- Finding their distinctive fluffy, white egg sacs hidden in the web.
- An accumulation of small insect carcasses at the bottom of the web.
Physical Evidence
- The web itself is the primary evidence. It is sticky and feels strong.
- The cotton-wool like egg sacs.
- Shed spider skins (exuviae) may be found within the web.
Behavioral Signs
- Spiders seen hanging upside down in their webs at night.
- The spider rapidly retreating into a crevice when a light is shone on it.
Seasonal Indicators
- Indoors, they are a year-round problem.
- In outdoor or unheated areas like sheds, populations will be highest in summer and autumn.
Early Warning Signals
- One or two small, tangled webs appearing in corners.
- Since they are prolific, seeing one female often means there will soon be more.
Prevention
Sanitation Measures
- Regularly vacuuming and cleaning, especially in undisturbed areas. Pay attention to corners, under furniture, and inside closets.
- Reduce clutter in your home, garage, and shed. Boxes, old equipment, and piles of items create ideal spider habitats.
- Store items in sealed plastic containers rather than cardboard boxes.
- Control other insect pests (like cockroaches and crickets) to reduce the spiders' food source.
Exclusion Methods
- Seal cracks and crevices in walls, around pipes, and along foundations to prevent entry.
- Install and maintain fly screens on windows and doors.
- Use weather strips and door seals to block gaps under doors.
- Inspect items like firewood or stored boxes before bringing them inside.
Landscaping Tips
- Keep vegetation trimmed away from the house perimeter.
- Move firewood racks and compost bins away from the house.
- Ensure sub-floor areas are well-ventilated and dry to make them less appealing.
Monitoring Strategies
- Conduct regular inspections of spider-prone areas with a torch.
- Place sticky traps along walls in garages or basements to monitor for crawling insects and spiders.
- A routine check of dark cupboards and storage areas every few months can catch a problem early.
Environmental Modification
- Reduce humidity in basements and sub-floor areas with improved ventilation or a dehumidifier.
- Use yellow 'bug lights' for outdoor lighting, as they attract fewer insects, thus reducing the spiders' food supply.
Control Methods
Professional Treatment Methods
Chemical Control
A professional will apply a residual insecticide to harbourage areas, including corners, cracks, crevices, sub-floor areas, and roof voids. This provides long-lasting control.
Biological Control
Not a practical method for household pest control.
Physical Control
The most direct method is removal with a vacuum cleaner. This gets rid of the spider, the web, and the egg sacs all at once. Dispose of the vacuum bag immediately.
Integrated Approach
The best professional approach is IPM: a thorough inspection, physical removal of webs and spiders, targeted application of dusts and sprays to voids and surfaces, and advising the homeowner on sanitation and exclusion.
DIY Treatment Options
Natural Remedies
While some people use peppermint oil or vinegar sprays as deterrents, their effectiveness against an established infestation is unproven and generally low.
Home Made Traps
Sticky glue traps placed in corners can catch wandering males and some females, helping to monitor and reduce numbers.
Deterrent Methods
A registered surface spray from a hardware store applied to window frames, door frames, and skirtings can create a deterrent barrier.
Mechanical Control
Vacuuming is the best DIY method. Direct application of a registered spider-killing aerosol spray is also effective for a single spider.
Treatment Effectiveness
Success Rate
Professional treatment is highly effective, providing control for many months. DIY vacuuming is 100% effective for what it removes but doesn't prevent re-infestation.
Timeframe
Direct sprays and vacuuming provide immediate results. Residual barrier sprays provide protection that can last from 3 to 12 months.
Follow Up Required
An annual general spider treatment is recommended to keep populations under control, especially in older homes or cluttered properties.
Seasonal Considerations
Treatment can be done at any time of year for an indoor infestation. Preventative treatments are best applied in spring before numbers build up.
Application Techniques
- When vacuuming, use a nozzle attachment to get right into the corners.
- When using aerosols, spray directly onto the spider and web.
- For surface sprays, apply an even band to all entry points and corners where spiders might build webs.
- Always read and follow the label instructions and safety precautions on any chemical product.
Professional Services
Professional Treatment Services
Chemical Control
A professional will apply a residual insecticide to harbourage areas, including corners, cracks, crevices, sub-floor areas, and roof voids. This provides long-lasting control.
Biological Control
Not a practical method for household pest control.
Physical Control
The most direct method is removal with a vacuum cleaner. This gets rid of the spider, the web, and the egg sacs all at once. Dispose of the vacuum bag immediately.
Integrated Approach
The best professional approach is IPM: a thorough inspection, physical removal of webs and spiders, targeted application of dusts and sprays to voids and surfaces, and advising the homeowner on sanitation and exclusion.
Professional Treatment Costs
$220-$450 for a general spider treatment that will cover Cupboard Spiders as well as other common species.
Treatment Success Rates
Professional treatment is highly effective, providing control for many months. DIY vacuuming is 100% effective for what it removes but doesn't prevent re-infestation.
Treatment Timeframe
Direct sprays and vacuuming provide immediate results. Residual barrier sprays provide protection that can last from 3 to 12 months.
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Browse All ProvidersSeasonal Patterns
Spring Activity
Populations that overwintered begin to become more active and start breeding. A good time for preventative treatments.
Summer Activity
Peak breeding and population growth, especially in outdoor or unheated locations. Infestations become most noticeable.
Autumn Activity
Activity remains high as spiders continue to breed before the weather cools. They may be more likely to move indoors seeking warmth.
Winter Activity
Activity slows in unheated areas. Indoors, where temperatures are stable, they can remain active and breed throughout winter.
Breeding Season
Can occur year-round indoors. Peaks in summer and autumn outdoors.
Peak Activity Period
Late summer and autumn are when infestations are generally at their worst and most visible.
Environmental Factors
Temperature Effects
Stable, warm indoor temperatures allow for year-round breeding and rapid development.
Humidity Effects
They are adaptable but generally prefer dry, sheltered spots over damp conditions.
Photoperiod Effects
Less of a factor for indoor populations that live in perpetual darkness in cupboards or voids.
Weather Patterns
Extreme cold or heat outdoors may drive them to seek shelter inside buildings.
Legal Considerations
Pest Status
Considered a common domestic and commercial pest.
Control Regulations
Standard pesticide use regulations apply. All commercial pest controllers must be licensed.
Professional Requirements
Technicians must hold a valid state-issued pest management license to apply chemicals for spider control.
Environmental Considerations
Care should be taken when applying chemicals outdoors to avoid spray drift and contamination of non-target areas. Targeted application is key.
Compliance Requirements
- All pesticide applications must follow the product label's legal directions.
- Workplaces have a duty of care to manage pests and provide a safe environment.
- No special permits are required for Cupboard Spider control.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes the Cupboard Spider different from a Redback Spider?
The single most important difference between a Cupboard Spider (Steatoda grossa) and a Redback Spider (Latrodectus hasselti) is colouration. A female Redback has a distinctive, vivid red to orange stripe or hourglass shape on the top (dorsal) side of its velvety black abdomen. The Cupboard Spider NEVER has this red stripe. Its abdomen is typically a shade of purplish-brown, dark brown, or satin black, and may have lighter-coloured markings like a frontal crescent or a series of spots, but these are pale cream or white, not red. Other differences exist: the Redback's egg sac is smooth and round like a paper ball, while the Cupboard Spider's is fluffy and looks like a cotton ball. While both have a similar globular body shape and build messy webs in dark places, the absence of the red stripe is the definitive feature that identifies a spider as NOT being a Redback.
How dangerous is a Cupboard Spider bite?
A Cupboard Spider bite is considered medically significant but is not as dangerous as a Redback bite. The venom can cause a set of symptoms called 'steatodism'. Typically, a bite will result in immediate or delayed pain at the site, which can be followed by localised swelling, redness, and a feeling of malaise. In more significant cases, symptoms can become systemic and include persistent headaches, nausea, vomiting, and lethargy, which can last for a day or more. While these symptoms are very unpleasant, they are not life-threatening and do not cause the severe neuromuscular effects associated with a Redback bite. Antivenom is not required. However, because the spiders look similar, if you are bitten and are not 100% certain of the species, you should seek medical advice to be safe.
What is the most effective way to get rid of Cupboard Spiders?
The most effective way to deal with Cupboard Spiders is a combination of physical removal and chemical control, often best performed by a professional. For immediate results, the best DIY method is to use a vacuum cleaner with a long nozzle attachment to suck up the spider, its web, and any egg sacs. This removes the immediate problem entirely. After vacuuming, dispose of the bag by sealing it in plastic and putting it in an outdoor bin. For a more lasting solution, especially if you have a recurring problem, a professional pest treatment is highly effective. A technician will use residual insecticides, applying them to the corners, crevices, and other harbourage areas where the spiders live. This creates a barrier that can kill spiders and prevent new ones from establishing for many months. Combining this with regular cleaning and decluttering is the best long-term strategy.
How can I prevent Cupboard Spiders from returning?
Preventing Cupboard Spiders is all about making your home less hospitable to them. The number one prevention strategy is sanitation and decluttering. Regularly vacuum and dust in dark, undisturbed areas, such as behind and under furniture, inside wardrobes, and in storage rooms. Reducing clutter, especially in garages and sheds, eliminates their preferred hiding and web-building spots. Store belongings in sealed plastic tubs instead of cardboard boxes. The second key strategy is exclusion. Seal up cracks and gaps in your home's exterior, around pipes, and under doors to block their entry points. Ensure fly screens are intact. Finally, you can use a hardware store surface spray to create a deterrent barrier around windows, doors, and other entry points, reapplying every few months as per the label directions. An annual professional pest spray is the most robust preventative measure.
When are Cupboard Spiders most active during the year?
One of the reasons Cupboard Spiders are such a common pest is their ability to thrive indoors, where the seasons have less impact. Inside a temperature-controlled home, they can be active, feed, and reproduce all year round. You can find an active infestation in the middle of winter just as easily as in summer. However, in outdoor populations or in unheated parts of a property like a shed or garage, their activity does follow a seasonal pattern. Their numbers and activity will be highest during the warmer months, peaking in late summer and autumn when their insect food source is most abundant. They may also be more noticeable in autumn as they seek shelter indoors to escape the coming cold. Therefore, while they are a year-round potential pest indoors, the risk of new spiders moving in from outside is highest from summer to autumn.
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Image Gallery
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